Wine of the Week

2004 Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Fuissé
Maconnais, France
$18-21

Is Pouilly-Fuissé passé? Mais, non! From one of the best known appellations in Burgundy just south of the Macon, this label from the house of Drouhin remains a favourite at tables in the US and abroad. A cool-climate Chardonnay with differing characteristics from its California counterparts, the wine offers tart apple and lemon-lime aromas with a distinctive, pleasing minerality and clean, crisp flavours of citrus aon the palate braced by a vibrant acidity. The 2004 vintage is excellent. Drink now and over the next five years. More food friendly than its often heavier oaked California cousins, the wine matches well with dishes like oysters Bienville and trout Meuniere, shellfish, sweetbreads and poultry.

Wine of the Week

2004 Giacomo Mori Chianti
Tuscany, Italy
$19-22

Since the 18th century, the Mori family has grown grapes on the hillsides of the Sienna in the Tuscany region. The current generation revitalized the vineyards and cellars in the early 90s, resulting in the planting of low yielding rootstock and only the best clones of Chianti's top varietals. Made from 95% estate-grown Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo, the wine was aged 10-12 months in large oak casks. Medium bodied and well balanced, the wine is violet scented, with black cherries and spice giving way to intriguing dried fruit flavours and soft, chewy tannins. Drink now and over the next five years. Good with osso buco, grilled pork and veal, pizza and pasta dishes.

Fantastic Reisling

Okay I thought I'd finally share a fabulous 2005 Reisling.

It's a Ürziger Würzgarten Reisling Spätlase. At 8% alcohol by volume, it's a sweet Reisling and quite tastey.

Wine of the Week

I have not forgotten the other lessons, dear reader. I will resume very soon. In the mean time, I thought I'd share a wine of the week from another source to give you ideas about what to serve guests or enjoy yourself.

2003 Ruffino Il Ducale
Tuscany, Italy
$16-22

A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon as well as small amounts of other red varietals, this wine is aged for 12 months in oak, followed by four months in tanks and an additional three months of bottle aging prior to release. In the glass, the wine evokes intense cassis fruit aromas with spice notes and hints of tobacco followed by ripe, deep plum and cocoa flavours on the palate. This inviting medium-bodied wine is well balanced with fine even tannins. Good with grilled meats, herb roasted chicken, grilled vegetables, tapenade and hard cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano.

Passing of a Wine Icon

I'm interrupting our lessons to inform you that this morning I learnt one of America's pre-eminent wine makers, Julio Gallo, passed away yesterday at the age of 97. He and his brother Ernest began making wine just after the end of Prohibition, starting with a recipe found in a book from their local library.

Tasting the Big 9: Cabernet Sauvignon

Basic information regarding this grape:

• For Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines in France, loook to Bordeaux's Left Bank, particularly the appellations of Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Graves, Listrac-Médoc, Margaux, Moulis, Pauillac, Pessac-Lèognan, St-Éstephe and St-Julien.
• California regions that stand out for Cabernet Sauvignon are Napa Valley and parts of Sonoma County, like Alexander and Knight's Valleys.
• In general, the more expensive the Cabernet, the more tannic it is, and the longer it needs to age before drinking.
• When a Cabernet Sauvignon is super tannic, pull out some rare beef or strong cheese like cheddar: The tannins will bind with the protein and leave your tongue alone.
• Cabernet Franc, a close relative to Cabernet Sauvignon, makes wines with similar but darker, lighter black fruit flavours and a herbal/foresty edge.
• To taste Cabernet Franc, look to France's Loire (Anjou, Bourgeuil, Chinon, Saumur); California's Napa Valley; Friuli, Italy; and Long Island in New York State.

Wines to compare:

Dour Bordeaux vs. Sunny California
Any Bordeaux wine, $15 and under
Any California wine, $15 and under

Australia's Extremes
A Margaret River Cabernet such as one from Cape Mentelle, Leeuwin Estate, Sandalford or Vasse Felix
A Coonawarra Cabernet such as one from Lindemans (St George), Parker, Penley or Wynns Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra

Tasting the Big 9: Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris

Some information regarding this grape:

• Pinot Grigio and Pinto Gris are the same grape.
• Rock-bottom prices usually buy rock-bottom Pinto Grigio - fine for parties, perhaps, but a few extra bucks goes a long way.
• Reach for Italy's Pinot Grigio when you want a wine that's light and crisp. The best come from the northern regions of Veneto, Trentino and particularly Friuli.
• Pull out Pinot Gris from Alsace when the mood calls for rich opulence.
• Look to Oregon for the best American examples of the grape.
• Pinto Bianco is not the same grape, but a close relative worth checking out for its rich, round texture.
  

Comparisons:

Italy vs. Alsace
Under $15 Italian from Venezie such as Canaletto, Ecco Domani, Zenato
Basic Alsace like one from Bruno Hunold, Domaine Paul Blanck, J.B. Adams or others under $15

Grigio and Gris in California
Grigio - Forest Glen, La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi, Meridian or others
Gris - Gallo of Sonoma Reserve, Joseph Swan Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards

Pinot Blanc and Gris from Oregon
Blanc - Adelsheim Vineyard, Erath, Foris or Yamhill
Gris - Chehalem, King Estate, Rex Hill or Sokol Blosser

Tasting the Big 9: Riesling

Some basic information regarding this grape:

• Wines made of Riesling almost always say so on the label, regardless where they are from.
• Some Rieslings are sweet, but many are dry.
• Riesling likes a cold, hard life, growing on stony slopes in places like Germany, New York State and Idaho.
• If a Riesling says trocken on the label, it's dry.
• Ripe doesn't necessarily mean sweet, so a wine that says Spätlese could be stone dry or slightly sweet.
• Riesling's naturally high acidity makes it extremely flexible with a wide range of foods, from fish to fowl and even red meat.

Some comparisons of Rieslings:

California vs. Germany
German QbA Rieslings such as Dr. Loosen Dr. L, Lingenfelder Bird Label, St. Urbans-Hof
California Rieslings such as Beringer, Fetzer, Turning Leaf

Two Hallmarks, Two Expressions*
German Kabinett Riesling from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer such as C von Schubert, Dr Loosen, Kerpen, Selbach-Oster
Riesling from Alsace like Dopff & Irion, Hugel, JB Adam, Paul Bank, Trimbach or others

Differences Down Under
Riesling from South Australia such as Yalumba South Australia Y Series, Jacob's Creek Barossa Valley Reserve Riesling or a Clare Valley Riesling such as Annie's Lane, Grosset Polish Hill or Pikes
A Riesling from anywhere else in the world.


* The Rieslings from Alsace and Germany are considered to be hallmarks of the style, but are very different.

Tasting the Big 9: Sauvignon Blanc

Here's some basic information regarding this particular grape:

• Sauvignon Blanc makes white wines with high acidity and a hallmark green note - green fruit, herb or vegetable.
• For lean, tart, minerally Sauvignon Blanc, look to colder climates, like France and Northern Italy.
• For richer, riper, rounder Sauvignon Blanc, look to California or the Southern Hemisphere.
• To find Sauvignon Blanc wines from France, look for wines labeled Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Quincy, Reuilly or Menetou-Salon, all of which are made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc.
• Fumé Blanc is another name for Sauvignon Blanc in the United States. It's typically, but not always, used for oaked versions.
• Sauvignon Blanc is often blended with Semillon. In the New World, wine labels will say so; in Bordeaux, the blend isn't mentioned on the label.
  

Want to find some varieties to compare? Try finding wines from these areas:

France vs. New Zealand:
A Loire Sauvignon Blanc such as a Sancerre or a Pouilly-Fumé
A New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc

Fresh or Smoked?:
Unoaked American Sauvignon Blanc like Cakebread, Chateau Souverain, Frog's Leap, Matanzas Creek or most other California bottlings
Oaked American Sauvignon Blanc such as a Fumé Blanc from Chateau St. Jean, Dry Creek Vineyards, Grgich or Robert Mondavi Winery

Down Under:
A South African Sauvignon Blanc like Le Bonheur, Mulderbosch, Porcupine Ridge, Thelema or any other from Stellenbosch or the Western Cape
A Chilean Sauvignon Blanc from Casablanca Valley like Concha y Toro Terrunyo, Santa Rita or Veramonte
An Australian Sauvignon-Semillon blend such as Alice White, Lindemans or Rosemount

Tasting the Big 9: Chardonnay

If you've never tried Chardonnay, here's some basic information regarding this grape:

• All white wines from Burgundy (France) are made from Chardonnay unless otherwise specified clearly on the label.
• The cooler the climate, the crisper the Chardonnay.
• The warmer the climate, the richer the Chardonnay.
• Oak [barrels] can bulk up Chardonnay's flavour with sweet vanilla, spice, and toasty notes. If it's crisp and light you want, look for the term unoaked.
• When bigger and richer is better, look for bottlings that have spent time in oak barrels, most especially reserve bottlings from California and Australia and high-end Burgundy whites.

Want some varieties to compare? Try finding some of these:

Oaked vs. Unoaked:
Unoaked - Lindemans and Plantanganet, both from Australia
Oaked - Fetzer Barrel Select, Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve Chardonnay, R.H. Phillips Toasted Head

Cold Climate vs. Warm Climate:
Cold Climate - Pouilly-Fuissé or Mâcon in Burgundy, France or Mendocino in California
Warm Climate - Languedoc, France; southeastern Australia; or Paso Robles, California

Vineyards:
Sonoma Coast Chardonnay like Flowers, Hartford Court or La Crema Sonoma Coast
Russian River [California] Chardonnay like Frei Brothers, Gallo of Sonoma Laguna, Hanna or La Crema
Dry Creek Valley [California] Chardonnay like Alderbrook, Ferrari-Carano or Pedroncelli

The Keeping of the Wine Pt.2

The next time you are enjoying a bunch of grapes, notice if there's one that you bite into and it leaves a bitter, dry cotton taste in your mouth. That tastes is caused by a chemical compound found in grape skins called tannins. They're naturally found in grape skins and other vegetation as well. Tannins are only found in red wine because the colour comes from the skin and pulp of a grape so it's all left together for a while during the wine making process. So, leaving the wine to age a while will allow the tannins to mellow. Otherwise you'd have a rather bitter tasting wine that you'd immediately chuck in the bin.

The Keeping of the Wine

Anyone know why red wines should be stored for months or years before they're drunk?

Obviously because they'll taste better when you wait, but why reds and not whites?

Meaning Behind My Madness

Welcome to my new blog.

If you're here and wondering what a cork dork is, or even a sommelier, read on and you will learn.

I recently discovered that there are, in fact, wines out there that I like the taste of... specifically reds. I decided, then, to purchase a book about wines so I could learn everything I possibly could about wines. The book I bought: The Complete Idiot's Guide to Wine Basics.

First thing I learnt when I began reading is that there is a term for individuals who want to learn wine beyond what tastes good to them. They're called cork dorks. I've decided that I fall into this category. I'm about a third of the way through the book and have learned such a lot already.

Second, I already knew what a sommelier is, but for anyone who doesn't know, they are the individuals at restaurants who help you decide which bottle of wine will go best with your meal.

I decided to begin this diary to share what I learn with others, keep track of things I learn and also keep track of various wines I sample and truly enjoy.

CD