Wine of the Week

2004 Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Fuissé
Maconnais, France
$18-21

Is Pouilly-Fuissé passé? Mais, non! From one of the best known appellations in Burgundy just south of the Macon, this label from the house of Drouhin remains a favourite at tables in the US and abroad. A cool-climate Chardonnay with differing characteristics from its California counterparts, the wine offers tart apple and lemon-lime aromas with a distinctive, pleasing minerality and clean, crisp flavours of citrus aon the palate braced by a vibrant acidity. The 2004 vintage is excellent. Drink now and over the next five years. More food friendly than its often heavier oaked California cousins, the wine matches well with dishes like oysters Bienville and trout Meuniere, shellfish, sweetbreads and poultry.

Wine of the Week

2004 Giacomo Mori Chianti
Tuscany, Italy
$19-22

Since the 18th century, the Mori family has grown grapes on the hillsides of the Sienna in the Tuscany region. The current generation revitalized the vineyards and cellars in the early 90s, resulting in the planting of low yielding rootstock and only the best clones of Chianti's top varietals. Made from 95% estate-grown Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo, the wine was aged 10-12 months in large oak casks. Medium bodied and well balanced, the wine is violet scented, with black cherries and spice giving way to intriguing dried fruit flavours and soft, chewy tannins. Drink now and over the next five years. Good with osso buco, grilled pork and veal, pizza and pasta dishes.

Fantastic Reisling

Okay I thought I'd finally share a fabulous 2005 Reisling.

It's a Ürziger Würzgarten Reisling Spätlase. At 8% alcohol by volume, it's a sweet Reisling and quite tastey.

Wine of the Week

I have not forgotten the other lessons, dear reader. I will resume very soon. In the mean time, I thought I'd share a wine of the week from another source to give you ideas about what to serve guests or enjoy yourself.

2003 Ruffino Il Ducale
Tuscany, Italy
$16-22

A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon as well as small amounts of other red varietals, this wine is aged for 12 months in oak, followed by four months in tanks and an additional three months of bottle aging prior to release. In the glass, the wine evokes intense cassis fruit aromas with spice notes and hints of tobacco followed by ripe, deep plum and cocoa flavours on the palate. This inviting medium-bodied wine is well balanced with fine even tannins. Good with grilled meats, herb roasted chicken, grilled vegetables, tapenade and hard cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano.

Passing of a Wine Icon

I'm interrupting our lessons to inform you that this morning I learnt one of America's pre-eminent wine makers, Julio Gallo, passed away yesterday at the age of 97. He and his brother Ernest began making wine just after the end of Prohibition, starting with a recipe found in a book from their local library.

Tasting the Big 9: Cabernet Sauvignon

Basic information regarding this grape:

• For Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines in France, loook to Bordeaux's Left Bank, particularly the appellations of Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Graves, Listrac-Médoc, Margaux, Moulis, Pauillac, Pessac-Lèognan, St-Éstephe and St-Julien.
• California regions that stand out for Cabernet Sauvignon are Napa Valley and parts of Sonoma County, like Alexander and Knight's Valleys.
• In general, the more expensive the Cabernet, the more tannic it is, and the longer it needs to age before drinking.
• When a Cabernet Sauvignon is super tannic, pull out some rare beef or strong cheese like cheddar: The tannins will bind with the protein and leave your tongue alone.
• Cabernet Franc, a close relative to Cabernet Sauvignon, makes wines with similar but darker, lighter black fruit flavours and a herbal/foresty edge.
• To taste Cabernet Franc, look to France's Loire (Anjou, Bourgeuil, Chinon, Saumur); California's Napa Valley; Friuli, Italy; and Long Island in New York State.

Wines to compare:

Dour Bordeaux vs. Sunny California
Any Bordeaux wine, $15 and under
Any California wine, $15 and under

Australia's Extremes
A Margaret River Cabernet such as one from Cape Mentelle, Leeuwin Estate, Sandalford or Vasse Felix
A Coonawarra Cabernet such as one from Lindemans (St George), Parker, Penley or Wynns Coonawarra Estate Coonawarra

Tasting the Big 9: Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris

Some information regarding this grape:

• Pinot Grigio and Pinto Gris are the same grape.
• Rock-bottom prices usually buy rock-bottom Pinto Grigio - fine for parties, perhaps, but a few extra bucks goes a long way.
• Reach for Italy's Pinot Grigio when you want a wine that's light and crisp. The best come from the northern regions of Veneto, Trentino and particularly Friuli.
• Pull out Pinot Gris from Alsace when the mood calls for rich opulence.
• Look to Oregon for the best American examples of the grape.
• Pinto Bianco is not the same grape, but a close relative worth checking out for its rich, round texture.
  

Comparisons:

Italy vs. Alsace
Under $15 Italian from Venezie such as Canaletto, Ecco Domani, Zenato
Basic Alsace like one from Bruno Hunold, Domaine Paul Blanck, J.B. Adams or others under $15

Grigio and Gris in California
Grigio - Forest Glen, La Famiglia di Robert Mondavi, Meridian or others
Gris - Gallo of Sonoma Reserve, Joseph Swan Vineyards, Navarro Vineyards

Pinot Blanc and Gris from Oregon
Blanc - Adelsheim Vineyard, Erath, Foris or Yamhill
Gris - Chehalem, King Estate, Rex Hill or Sokol Blosser